Snake Plant - A Guide to Growing Sansevieria

Botanical name:

Sansevieria spp.

Common names:

Snake plant, mother-in-law’s tongue, viper’s bowstring hemp

Origin:

West Africa

Care Level:

Nearly effortless. Can tolerate long periods of neglect without complaint.

Size:

6 inches to 4 feet

Light requirements:

Will thrive in everything from bright light to dimly lit corners. Don’t place in direct sunlight, which can scorch the leaves. An east- or west-facing window is optimal.

Growth rate:

Slow to moderate.

Foliage:

The only visible portion of a snake plant are its leathery, sharply pointed leaves, which often have a variegated pattern resembling the coloring of an exotic snake. Usually the foliage is tall and upright, but there are also dwarf “bird’s nest” varieties that form squat rosettes of leaves. The foliage is typically flat or slightly concave, but you can also find interesting cultivars with twisted and tubular leaves.

Flowers:

When grown indoors, they will seldom flower, but a mature plant may surprise you by sending up a slender spike of small lily-like flowers. The blooms are usually white or pale pink and very fragrant. Most plants will go many years between bloom cycles.

Longevity:

Twenty years or more; indefinitely, if propagated by division every five years or so.

Toxicity:

The leaves can cause gastrointestinal upset if ingested, so keep out of reach of children and pets. See more Common Poisonous Plants for Dogs and Cats.

Photo by: alenysk / Shutterstock

Where to plant:

Almost anywhere that has some sort of light source. The room temperature should be between 65° to 80° F, since sansevierias are sensitive to cold temperatures. They can also be grown outdoors as potted plants or planted directly in the ground in warmer climates (Zones 9 to 11).

Humidity:

Usually not an issue. Can tolerate a wide range of humidity levels.

Soil type:

Thrives best in a well-draining potting mix that includes perlite.

Pot requirements:

Because snake plants spread by rhizomes, they can muscle their way out of flimsy plastic containers. A heavy clay pot is a better home because they don’t crack as easily and is less likely to topple over under the weight of the tall leaves. Whatever type of pot you use, make sure it has holes in the bottom for drainage.

Propagation:

One of the easiest house plants to divide and share. Simply break away new shoots from the parent plant, using a sharp knife to cut through the thick roots and rhizomes. Replant the individual shoots in new pots, making sure each clump has some roots attached. You can also propagate by leaf cuttings allowed to root in moist potting soil. However, cuttings from variegated cultivars will not necessarily produce variegations true to type.

Watering:

Because Sansevieria is a succulent, its leaves are thick in order to store water, much like a cactus. Plants only need watering once every week or two, or whenever the soil feels dry. It’s always better to err on the dry side, since overwatering can lead to root rot. Pretty much the only thing you can do to kill a snake plant is to give it too much water. If the leaves begin to turn yellow or get soft and mushy at the base, that’s usually a sign of overwatering and poor soil drainage.

Fertilizing:

Although they’re fine with little or no fertilizer, they will be more robust if given an all-purpose houseplant fertilizer diluted to half the recommended rate. Do not fertilize in winter.

Cleaning:

Dust the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to maintain their glossy sheen.

Repotting:

Snake plant doesn’t mind being snug in its pot, but it’s still a good idea to repot it every two or three years to refresh the soil and improve drainage. If the pot size is adequate, simply place your plant back into the same pot filled with fresh soil.

Pests and problems:

Rarely will you encounter any serious pest or disease problems, but be on the lookout for white mealybugs, which can easily be removed with cotton swabs dipped in 70% rubbing alcohol. (See more on common houseplant pests.)

Removing dead or damaged foliage:

Although it’s hard to kill one by underwatering, chronic neglect can result in brown, crispy leaf tips. If the damage is unsightly or the leaf dies completely, simply cut the entire leaf off at the soil surface. If you prune off only part of a leaf, it will not regenerate from the cut point.

• Snake plant's tall, linear look makes it a strong vertical accent, either alone, flanking an entryway, or grouped with other foliage plants. Because they tolerate relocation well and are not fussy about light requirements, they are great plant to move about the house wherever you need a striking architectural element.
• Use tall types to create a privacy screen in front of a bedroom or bathroom window. Or set multiple pots in a row on a long table or shelf to create a natural room divider.
• If you want to pack a lot of plants into a narrow space, fill a slim vase with “a smorgasbord of sansevierias,” suggests Baylor Chapman, author of Decorating with Plants. “Include a standard snake plant as well as more interesting varieties of Sansevieria such as shark’s fin, bird’s nest, starfish, and ‘Superclone’. Just like a box of assorted chocolates, it’s bound to draw you in and keep you coming back for more.”
• The bird’s nest types (S. trifasciata ‘Hahnii') are ideal tabletop plants, especially in low-light areas where little else will grow. Because they are compact and slow growing, they also work well in dish gardens or terrariums.
• Place pots of snake plants near an aquarium to mimic seaweed. The tall, twisty leaves resemble a kelp garden, with the branches swaying in the current.
• Use tall sansevieiras placed in a decorative plant stand (like this one from Amazon) to enliven empty, drab corners. Such spots are perfect havens for these shade-tolerant plants.