How to Create a No-Till Garden

Using cardboard as sheet mulch to create a new garden bed. Photo: Janice Groves, Jay's Garden Journal.

Gardeners have traditionally used tilling or digging to loosen and aerate the soil, remove weeds, and incorporate soil amendments. While this gardening method offers short-term benefits, over time it may do more harm than good. Soil consists of a complex ecosystem of beneficial insects, microorganisms, bacteria, and fungi. These organisms exist in different layers of the soil. When soil is disturbed by tilling or turning, it destroys the complex soil food web, which can harm soil health and kill beneficial organisms that live beneath the soil surface.

If your garden experiences problems with excessive weeds, compacted soil, poor drainage, and plants that fail to thrive, the no-till gardening method may be the solution that you’re looking for.

No-till gardening, also known as no-dig gardening, was most recently pioneered by English horticulturist Charles Dowding during the 1980s in his quest to find a way to make garden soil healthier and more biodiverse. Dowding found that when soil was left undisturbed, it allowed beneficial organisms to do their job more efficiently, resulting in healthier soil. Healthier soil leads to healthier plants, which are better able to ward off pests and diseases. Undisturbed soil doesn’t suffer from compaction, allowing water and nutrients to penetrate the soil more easily.

• WHAT IS THE NO-TILL GARDENING METHOD?
• HOW DO I CONVERT MY GARDEN TO NO-TILL?
• PLANTING NO-TILL GARDEN BEDS
• MAINTAINING NO-TILL GARDEN BEDS
• BENEFITS OF NO-TILL GARDENING
• FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Metal raised bed frames can be used to hold the compost or mulch in place. Photo: Janey Santos, Dig, Plant, Water, Repeat.

WHAT IS THE NO-TILL GARDENING METHOD?

No-till gardening is a method that doesn’t turn the soil. Instead, organic matter such as compost and wood chips are laid on the surface and allowed to percolate down into the native soil. Tilling or turning over garden soil exposes weed seeds to light, allowing them to germinate. It also destroys the soil structure and layers that harbor earthworms, beneficial bacteria, fungi, and other organisms that are essential for soil health. The primary goal of no-till gardening is to leave the soil as undisturbed as possible.

No-till growing is a regenerative practice that improves soil health over time, building beneficial soil microbe communities and supporting greater biodiversity. This permaculture method mimics the process found in nature, where leaves fall to the ground and decompose into humus, replenishing the forest floor with rich nutrients.

As amendments are added to beds over time, the soil becomes increasingly fertile. No-till gardening only uses organic practices, eschewing the use of pesticides, synthetic fertilizers, and chemical controls. Various no-till terms and methods include sheet mulching, lasagna gardening, layered gardening, and hügelkultur.

Patience is key when converting to no-till garden beds. Though no-till beds are lower maintenance once established, it takes a certain amount of time, effort, and expense up front to get started. It may take up to several years to realize the full benefits.

Adding compost to no-till beds. Photo: Janey Santos, Dig, Plant, Water, Repeat.

HOW DO I CONVERT MY GARDEN TO NO-TILL?

To create a no-till bed, a compostable barrier such as brown unwaxed cardboard or layers of newspaper is laid on top of an area such as a lawn, old garden bed, or bare soil. Soil amendments are spread over the top. This will suppress weeds, at the same time aiding with decomposition of the vegetation underneath. As amendments break down, they work into the soil, adding nutrients, improving drainage and aeration.

The best time to make no-till beds is in autumn when fallen leaves are available and materials have time to decompose over winter, though these beds can be started at any time of year.

There are several key steps to making the transition from traditional garden beds to no-till beds.

Choose a site. No-till garden beds are most often used to grow food crops. Pick a site that gets at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight during most of the growing season. Ornamental plants can also be grown in no-till beds. Light requirements for perennials, trees, and shrubs will vary.

Create beds. Outline beds with logs, pavers, bricks, or plastic edging, or install raised beds. Make garden beds no more than 4 feet across for easy access. Leave room in between beds for pathways. This allows for maintenance without stepping into beds, which will compact the soil.

Prepare beds. Clear debris and large rocks from the area to be planted. Cut weeds and other plants back to the ground with a weed eater, loppers, or pruners. Chop plant debris into small pieces with a lawn mower or pruners, and lay the debris on top of beds to decompose. Leave plant roots to decompose in the soil, which will help form tunnels for improved aeration.

Place materials. Here are the steps to take:

• Place layers of cardboard or newspaper on top of the soil, making sure there is overlap so there are no gaps where weeds can re-sprout. Layers should be thick enough to suppress grass, weeds, and weed seeds. A single layer of brown cardboard, or 5 to 10 sheets of newspaper is usually sufficient. Wet down barrier materials for faster decomposition.
• Cover barrier material with 4 to 6 inches of organic matter such as compost, aged manure, leaf mold, or straw. Wood chips can also be added over the top. Keep beds evenly moist to speed decomposition. Earthworms and other organisms will work to break down and bring organic matter into the native soil.
• For pathways, lay down newspaper or cardboard and cover with several inches of wood chips.

Allow beds to rest over winter. Wait until spring to plant no-till beds. This allows time for grass and weeds to decompose, and for amendments to begin working into the soil.

Larger amounts of soil amendments such as compost, manure, and wood chips can be purchased in bulk at soil companies. Some areas have free chip drop programs. You can also make your own compost.

PLANTING NO-TILL GARDEN BEDS

In spring after the soil has warmed up, it’s time to plant. Do a soil test to see what nutrients might be deficient, and correct any problems as needed. Before planting, soil can be aerated with a digging fork or broad fork. Gently work the tines into the soil at intervals, making sure not to turn the soil.

Plants can be grown from seeds or starts.

From seed: Seeds can be started in trays or directly sown in the ground. Follow instructions for individual plant varieties. Root crops such as carrots and parsnips are best directly sown. Transplant seedlings into the garden after all danger of frost is past.

From starts: Dig a hole twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball. Place root ball in the hole so the base of the plant is level with the surrounding soil. Backfill the hole with soil and lightly tamp down to firm the soil.

Mulch around plants with straw, untreated grass clippings, leaves, or compost to suppress weeds, retain moisture, provide nutrients, and cool the root zone. This will also keep developing fruits off the ground, which can lead to rot or other issues.

MAINTAINING NO-TILL GARDEN BEDS

When crops are finished producing at the end of the growing season, cut plants back to the ground, chop up plant debris and lay it on top of the soil. Dispose any diseased plants in the trash. Apply a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic matter to feed the soil with a steady source of nutrients. Organic material can include compost, manure, fallen leaves, straw, wood chips, sawdust, or grass clippings. Mulch materials should be as weed-free as possible and not contain any chemicals. After several years, a smaller amount of compost 1 to 2 inches thick is sufficient for established beds.

As an alternative, cover crops such as clover, winter rye, common buckwheat, and alfalfa can be planted in fall. These nutrient-rich crops will grow from fall through spring, when they can be chopped down and left on the soil surface to break down. This will improve soil structure and replenish nutrients.

For perennial beds, apply a several-inch layer of compost or wood chips on top of the soil in fall. Avoid wood products that have dyes or have been chemically treated. Keep mulch away from the base of plants to prevent stem rot or attracting pests such as slugs.

Pathways can be mulched with wood chips applied several inches deep.

Over time, beds will become more self-sustaining, have fewer weeds, and require less maintenance.

Using newspaper as sheet mulch. Photo: Janice Groves, Jay's Garden Journal.

BENEFITS OF NO-TILL GARDENING

There are many benefits to the no-till gardening method, including:

Less erosion. Mulch protects the soil surface, making it less prone to erosion and water runoff.

Fewer weeds. The thick layer of amendments on top of the soil suppresses weeds and prevents weed seeds from germinating. Any weeds that sprout on the surface are easier to pull.

Better drainage. Undisturbed soil forms small air pockets that allow water and nutrients to flow more freely to the root zone.

Less compaction. Tilling destroys soil structure, breaking the soil into tiny pieces that settle and compact. The no-till method preserves underground networks of earthworms and other organisms that help aerate the soil, keeping soil structure lighter and fluffier.

Greater soil fertility. As soil amendments break down, they provide a steady supply of nutrients, requiring little or no supplemental fertilizer.

Healthier plants. Amendments that are regularly added to the soil surface provide plants with a steady source of nutrients throughout the growing season. Un-compacted soil with good aeration allows for improved root development, leading to larger and healthier plants.

Higher crop yields. Healthier soil means healthier plants, which will produce more fruits and vegetables.

Reduce water usage. Soil amendments placed on top of the soil help retain moisture in the root zone, requiring less water usage.

Improved pest and disease resistance. Healthy plants are better able to ward off pests and diseases.

Supports soil life. Beneficial organisms including earthworms, insects, bacteria, and fungi work together to improve soil health and ward off pests and diseases. Undisturbed soil creates a healthier ecosystem for beneficial organisms to thrive, restoring the natural balance between pests and predators. Earthworms create tunnels as they move underneath the ground, helping to aerate the soil. They also leave nutrient-rich castings that feed plants.

Lower cost. Established no-till beds become more self-sustaining, needing less water and fertilizer, which adds up to a cost savings over the years. Amendments such as grass clippings, leaves, homemade compost and free wood chips cost little or nothing.

Less maintenance. Though there is a time investment up front, established no-till beds require less maintenance than tilled beds. Regular garden chores such as watering, weeding, pest and disease control will take less time.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What is the best mulch for a no-till garden?

Compost is considered one of the best mulches for no-till gardens. It supplies a rich source of nutrients for plants, improves soil structure, and feeds beneficial organisms.

Is a no-till garden better than a tilled garden?

There are advantages and drawbacks to each gardening approach. Tilled garden beds can be planed right away, though require more maintenance with watering, weeding, and fertilizing. No-till beds require more maintenance up front, but will eventually become more self-sustaining over time. Plants are generally healthier and with better yields using the no-till method.

Does no-till reduce weeds?

The barriers and mulch that are used in no-till gardening will suppress weeds and weed seeds, keeping them from germinating. New weed seeds dispersed on wind and through wildlife may germinate on the soil surface, where they are easier to remove.