July Gardening Checklist for Seattle
Summer heat is here and there’s plenty to do in the gardenmdash;from planting quickly maturing seeds to cleaning up sprawling growth. This month is all about being outdoors when the summer days are long and the weather is at its best.
1. Plant Quickly Maturing Crops
You can still get seeds in the ground this month, but stick to crops that mature quickly or will be ready to harvest before the first frost: beets, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, collards, kale, leeks, lettuce, some melons, mustard, onion, parsnips, radishes, carrots. Some interesting varieties to plant include ‘Rally’ leeks (85 days to maturity), ‘Savor’ melon (78 days), ‘Hannah’s Choice’ melon (75 days), ‘Deep Purple’ carrots (73 days), ‘Salanova’ red butter lettuce (55 days), and ‘Teodore’ lettuce (50 days). Local edible-garden expert Colin McCrate of Seattle Urban Farm Company says, “root crops like beets and carrots are particularly good because they mature quickly (in 50-80 days), do best when they’re sown directly in the ground, and will be ready to harvest between late August and late September.” He likes ‘Early Wonder’, ‘Chioggia Guardsmark’, and ‘Touchstone Golden’ beets as well as ‘Scarlet Nantes’, ‘Nectar’, ‘Napoli’, and ‘Mokum’ carrots.
2. Keep the Harvest Going
Many varieties of edible crops including tomatoes, green beans, and squash do better when fruits and vegetables are harvested regularly. The harvest spurs new growth, and you want to avoid oversized produce that doesn’t taste all that great. This month, try to make a daily habit of walking the garden to harvest ripe produce—and while you’re at it, look for any issues that might be popping up in the garden.
3. Feed Your Winners
Most plants are in growth mode in July. Give them a dose of fertilizer or compost so they have the proper nutrients they need to thrive. You can order compost from a local nursery, use homemade compost, or find a supplier of mushroom compost (make sure to mix it in with existing soil so it doesn’t burn your plants). You can also use granulated fertilizer. Different plants respond to different dosages of fertilizer, so do your research or ask a local nursery for advice. For example, fruit trees respond best to a 5-5-2 fertilizer such as Dr. Earth Natural Wonder Fruit Tree Fertilizer. Before adding compost or fertilizer, be sure to weed the area; after composting or fertilizing, give the area plenty of water to prevent burning.
4. Keep Your Containers Hydrated
Watering can be tricky in the July heat, and you really need to keep a watchful eye on plants that are in full sun. This is especially important for container plantings and raised beds that might get extra hot and dry out quickly. Containers may even need to be watered daily or several times per day. If container watering is always giving you a hassle, try a WaterWise Container Watering Kit. It can water up to 10 containers and connects to a single hose faucet. Kits can also be connected together if you have more pots that you need to water.
5. Don’t Let Pests Get the Best of You
Pests such as spider mites and maggot flies can quickly turn into a big problem in the summer heat. Watch for pests when watering or weeding and remove affected leaves as soon as possible. If an entire plant is affected, sometimes it’s best to sacrifice the plant by removing it so pests don’t spread. If the problem isn’t too severe, try spraying plant foliage with neem oil. If you see snails and slugs, it’s best to remove them by hand then drop them in a bucket of soapy water to kill them. If that doesn’t work, try using a safe bait. If you have a big snail and slug problem, avoid including plants that attract them such as hostas.
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6. Deadhead Flowers
You don’t have to deadhead flowers, but for some perennials it promotes a second bloom. Some perennials to deadhead include bee balm, blanket flower, phlox, yarrow, bellflower, Jupiter’s beard, bachelor buttons, cranesbill, and tickseed. Other perennials are better left alone so that they can reseed in the garden or because they have continual blooms include sedum, baptisia, foxglove, cardinal flower, begonias, astilbe, forget-me-not, and hollyhock.
7. Protect Your Roses
Roses can always use an extra dose of care during summer when insects, fungal disease, and mites are at their strongest. Spray roses regularly with Rose Rx or a similar organic pest- and disease-prevention spray. The nice thing about Rose Rx is that it rids your rose plants of a number of unwanted critters and ailments—not just one. It’s also preventative so you can use it every month to ward off issues. If you do get diseases or pests, remove infected leaves and discard them. Finally, a critical step to protecting your roses is making sure you’re giving them plenty of water.
8. Summer Lawn Care 101
If you have a warm-season lawn, be sure it’s getting plenty of water during the heat of the summer. Warm-season lawns are generally best fertilized in the spring so hold off during summer months. If you have a cool-season lawn that goes dormant (turns brown) during summer months you can relax. When the weather cools and wetter weather returns it will green back up. You really don’t have to do much to cool-season lawns this time of year—just be sure any weeds or unwanted grasses don’t infiltrate your lawn. It’s a good idea to scan every week or two for invaders and remove them immediately. In summer, mow your lawn higher (2- to 3-inches tall) and leave grass clippings on the lawn to help with water retention. You can generally hold off on fertilizing cool-season lawns during the height of summer and wait until cooler weather returns to begin again.
9. Cut Back Spring Flowering Shrubs If You Haven’t Already
Once flowering is finished (it usually is by July), cut back flowering shrubs such as lilacs, forsythia, weigela, and azaleas. If you have a reblooming plant, it’s best to prune it soon after its first bloom to maximize the number of flowers you’ll get.
10. Be Vigilant with Your Vines
At this time of year, clematis, passionflowers, morning glories, and other flowering vines are likely in a full sprint to the top of trellises and arbors. Be sure to guide your vines so they go where you want them. It’s difficult to untangle or unwind vines after they’ve already become intertwined with other plants, fences, or structures. The detangling process can also destroy the wonderful flowers that you’ve worked so hard to grow.
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